1000 Steps and Lyrebird Track Loop — more than just a workout

This is the 1000 Steps and Lyrebird Track Loop, a moderate 4.2km circuit through the Dandenong Ranges that somehow manages to be a proper leg workout with a fascinating history lesson and it’s only about 45 minutes from the city!

Quick facts

• Distance: 4.2km loop
• Time: 90 minutes
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Type: Loop
• Region: Dandenong Ranges (Wurundjeri Country)
• Drive distance from Melbourne: 45 minutes / 40km

Why should I hike this trail?

This iconic walk is a solid fitness challenge and the rainforest scenery is genuinely beautiful but honestly that’s not even the main draw for me. The Kokoda Track Memorial Walk first opened to the public in 1996 and was built to commemorate the Australian soldiers who fought in Papua New Guinea during WWII. Throughout the trail you’ll pass a number of plaques and statues dedicated to the sacrifice, courage and mateship of those who served, each one telling a piece of their story. The journey up the stairs is a tough slog and a worthy challenge, but you’ll walk away having actually learned something too.

What is the trail actually like?

To start the walk park at Ferntree Gully Picnic Ground and look for the overhead sign marking the Kokoda Track Memorial Walk. Almost straight away you’ll pass the mates statue, showing soldiers carrying each other as a tribute to the courage and sacrifice of those who fought in WWII and you can stop here and read the names of soldiers listed by battalion which is pretty emotional.

The trail junction comes up after about 5 minutes where you’ll head right onto Ramblers Walk, a flat easy 470m stretch through giant ferns and towering mountain ash which is the perfect introduction to the scenery of the Dandenong Ranges. Along here you’ll also pass a plaque detailing the actual Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea and the route the soldiers took.

The base of the 1000 Steps is about 15 minutes in and this is where the real work starts! You’ll follow a tough climb up never-ending stone steps with a few bench seats if you need to catch your breath. As you creep closer to the top, you’ll pass a number of signposts along the way telling you how far you’ve got left and there are a few tree clearings with great views back over the ranges.

Eventually when you reach the top, you’ll reach One Tree Hill Picnic Ground, where there’s a BBQ area plus commemorative plaques and cairns honouring the Australian Military Forces who fought and died on the Kokoda Track. Once you’ve had a break head back down via the Lyrebird Track which is less steep than the way up but still no walk in the park. There are steep stone steps on the left and a sloped incline on the right which can get slippery if you’re walking after rain but after one final push you’ll make it back to the car park.

What was your experience on the trail?

Honestly the thing that stood out to me wasn’t the workout, it was realising how much this trail actually commemorates real sacrifice and courage! I came away from this walk having learned so much about the war and the conflict with Japan that I didn’t really know before. My older brother Patty actually walked the real Kokoda Track back when we were in high school and I remember him telling me how gruelling that climb was and how brutal it must have been for the soldiers. Walking this version with those signs and plaques along the way really painted that picture for me.

I also really appreciate the countdown signs near the top! I was doing it tough by that point but seeing how many steps I had left kept me pushing and I gave myself a high five when I hit the “you made it” sign at the top. There’s a real sense of accomplishment when you’re done and the scenery throughout isn’t too shabby either. It’s hard to believe something like this sits so close to Melbourne!

Good to know

• Getting there: There is free parking at Ferntree Gully Picnic Ground off Mount Dandenong Tourist Road. It fills up fast on weekends and can get busy mid-morning on weekdays too so get there early if you can.
• Best time to go: It’s a fun trail to hike all year round. I went on a sunny April morning and started around 9am and it was already pretty warm so hiking at midday in summer would be a challenge! I feel like the trail would look beautiful in winter due to all the mist but just watch your footing since it can get slippery in the rain.
• Bring: There’s plenty of shade on the trail! I recommend dressing in layers because the cool temperate rainforest can be chilly to start but you’ll warm up fast on the climb. Bring some snacks to enjoy once you make it to the top and at least a litre of water and even more if it’s a hot day. Also if you’re carrying any camera gear like me try to keep your pack light because you’ll feel it on the way down!
• Dog/kid friendly: The walk is very family friendly! I had some seriously fit older folks overtake me on the way up so I feel like most people should be able to complete it. Unfortunately the trail is not dog friendly as it sits within Dandenong Ranges National Park.
• Facilities: There are picnic tables, toilets and BBQs at Ferntree Gully Picnic Ground as well as at One Tree Hill Picnic Ground. You can also enjoy a coffee and some food at the 1000 Steps Café right at the car park. They are closed Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday but are open every other day of the week. Their trading hours can vary so check their Google listing!

Things to do nearby

If you’re looking for more to do in the region, there’s plenty to keep you busy. The towns of Belgrave, Sassafras, Olinda and Emerald are all close by and worth a wander in their own right. From Belgrave you can jump on the Puffing Billy or if you’re up for more hikes try the Sherbrooke Forest Circuit, the Olinda Falls and Valley Track or the Mathias Track. The Alfred Nicholas Gardens and the Dandenong Ranges Botanic Gardens are both stunning picnic spots and if you want to slow down after the climb, check out Burkes Lookout and the R.J. Hamer Arboretum for epic views over the ranges. Finally when you’re ready to eat, grab a hearty meal at the Pig and Whistle Tavern, coffee at Stonehouse Roastery or pastries from Persephone Bakehouse!